How To Use Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI in Cocktails
When American actor Stanley Tucci made a shaken and served up “negroni with a twist” for his show Searching for Italy, the drink didn’t get its acidic pop from citrus, instead, it was a teaspoon of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena that added a sweet and savory note to the already iconic cocktail.
Not to say I did it first (because I didn’t) but when my book ACID TRIP: Travels in the World of Vinegar came out in 2017, I included a recipe from mixologist Damon Boelte of Brooklyn’s Grand Army Bar. He made his version as a pitcher drink, with 1.5 quarts of equal parts Campari, vermouth and gin with ½ cup of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP, amplified by sliced strawberries and cucumbers and served over ice. Only recently has the PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) variety been added to many top back bars around the world.
Jim Meehan, renowned bartender, who wrote Meehan’s Bartender Manual, created the Milano Modena, a riff on the Milano Torino cocktail (Campari + sweet vermouth), using Balsamic Vinegar of Modena in place of the vermouth. He adds a dose of Lambrusco (a red sparkling wine that’s also produced in Emilia - Romagna from the same grapes as the original Balsamico) for a surprising Sbagliato. Three ounces of Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOP and three quarters ounce of Campari, are rounded out by a quarter ounce of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI Invecchiato, aged for at least 3 years, developing a dark and deep brown color, but with balanced and dazzling flavors. “Lambrusco, the local bubbly’s bright fruit and pronounced tannins cut the vinegar’s sweetness and accentuate its acidity,” says Meehan.
Eamon Rockey, a beverage specialist, and founder of Rockey’s Liquors, knows a thing or two about botanicals. While he was Director of Beverage Studies at The Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) in New York City, he created Lo Spirito Viola (video), a highball that layers Lambrusco wine and Balsamic Vinegar of Modena with sweet almond-flavored Amaretto and sparkling water, garnished with a preserved Amarena cherry. Cherry notes are at the forefront, “plus, it’s [the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena] is aged in barrels, just like the spirits [e.g. Amaretto],” quotes Rockey, even in cherry wood. The drink’s ideal alongside other regional delights, like Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma.
For something non-alcoholic, ICE’s Director of Nutrition, Celine Beitchman, suggests making a shrub with Modena Balsamic Vinegar PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) as opposed to a more neutral-flavored vinegar for pronounced effects. In a similar vein, the Culinary Institute of America’s beet, maple balsamic version uses PGI as a way to pair with and boost the sweet and rich flavors of the beet and maple. Their rendition of cherry balsamic soda reminds me of an NA version of Rockey’s drink, or the balsamic-seltzer “healthy Coca-Cola” that trended on TikTok.
Nowadays, I like drinking my Balsamic at Dante in NYC — in an on-top Blood Orange Spritz — which magnificently mixes Malfy Blood Orange Gin, Select aperitivo, Amaro Santoni, San Pellegrino Aranciata Rossa, and Prosecco, with none other than Modena Balsamic Vinegar. Saluti!